Ok most people who join the forums and ask more or less the same questions.. here's a few to save you some time. If you still have questions please use the search function on the forums.
Disclaimer: This information is given to the best of our knowledge but is provided "as is". Vwsyncro.co.uk or it's members cannot be held liable in any way for mishaps related to this info.
Yes but among other things you will need some rather custom pipework to get your downpipe to clear the propshaft. It can be done but talk to forum members who've done it before proceeding. You'll also need a fuel-lift-pump from a Rallye and a pressure pump from a GTI or similar as well a suitable motor wiring loom (and that really is only the start of the headache). ^Top | Some relevant forum topics
Fit a weber 32/34 DTML carb (jetted for 1.8L). It's a direct replacement for the OEM Pierburg unit and whilst you won't be setting new land speed records this seems to be a popular and effective upgrade leaving the car about equivalent to a normal 8v gti. You can pick up those carbs for about £40-120 depending on condition. Post on forums for assistance re fitting and jetting these carbs. Please note you will need to fit a manual choke cable but there are a number of options in this area. ^Top | Some relevant forum topics
Basically "other syncros". Whilst VW will often be able to help the oem prices aren't what most people are after. There are *lots* of parts sitting in our forum members' workshops & sheds so there's a fairly thriving trade of gearboxes, engines suspension and drivetrain components on the forums so that's as good a place as any to start - otherwise german ebay is a remote treasure trove. However! ebay.de users often seem to not like posting heavy parts, especially across the atlantic, so we do try and help our regular forum members with international shipping where possible. ^
Don't go there... no really. Still determined? ok well there are a number of forum members who've done successful conversions of that type on various models of car. There's plenty of related reading on the forums but be aware this is quite major car surgery involving replacing the main tunnel and boot floor. Bagsy not. ^
Yes it can be done but required some custom fabrication to hold it all in place. www.dutchdub.com sell kits to simplify this process but as far as I'm aware there have also been successful diy attempts. You'll also need to source one of the recently available haldex controller units to get it to do anything useful. ^
Amalgamated forum mumblings would seem to indicate about 150hp, possibly 200 if you're careful. It is apparently possible to use the input shaft from a 16v (2y code) box since it's thicker but that will mean you also need to make a clutch mish-mash of syncro and 16v parts (since the splines are different sizes). There is also a "diff bolt kit" whcih can help strengthen your rod-shfit box by replacing the rivets whcih hold the diff together with much sturdier bolts. The diff-rivets are apparently one of the weakest areas of the rod-shift box. That said - most of the syncros in the forums (which are actually running) are on rod-shift boxes. ^
There are several forum members involved in this process at the moment and there are a number of ways of doing it so we don't have a "final count" of what's the best way yet but we do know that you will need to change at least these items: gearbox (from a syncro G60 or Rallye ~£200-300 dpending on condition), inner CVs (if not 100mm items already), gear selector. You will also need a new clutch and starter motor to match the cable shift kit. To the best of my knowledge cable shift boxes are normally hydraulically operated so you'll either need to replace the standard pedal assembly or source an adapter from VW. This isn't 100% tested yet but VW did have a sirocco which had a cable-operated-cable-shift-box. ^
To the best of my knowledge on Golf 2 and Passat 35i the rear diffs were all the same, the only exception being the VW motorsport Rallye one which is stronger due to having a cast iron case) but the V.C. units are different until the 1990 model year when VW rationalised them by fitting the G60 unit to all Golf & Passat models. It's worth bearing in mind that the rear diff only handles as a maximum 50% of the power so there should be a bit more margin for error than with the front box. ^
They are indeed stronger but the vr6 kit works at different ratios so if you want vr6 you'll need vr6 drivetrain kit throughout. As far as I'm aware it's possible to fit part of a non-vr6 'box so a vr6 box will mate up to a standard 4-cylinder motor. Given that a cable-shfit (g60syncro/rallye) box will easily hold 200+ bhp and beyond there's only a limited number of applications where using the VR6 system would be worth the effort and extra weight of the cast-iron casing. ^
Yes - Peloquin manufacture front and I *think* also now rear LSDs - available for somewhere around £500 a piece new. ^
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